Trip Overview: an 8 day safari trip in South Luangwa National Park in Zambia. This itinerary included stays at three different safari camps and 2 nights camping in mobile bush camps. During the trip we had both guided game drives (day and night) and traditional Zambian walking safaris. South Luangwa NP is a well-known safari destination because of its extremely high density of mammals and birds as well as its beautiful scenery along the Luangwa River. Highlights included several leopard sightings, leopard and lion kills, numerous birds, and large numbers of hippo and elephants.
Itinerary:
Jump to Day 1: Arrival at South Luangwa National Park
Jump to Day 2: Luangwa River Camp
Jump to Day 3: Tena Tena Camp
Jump to Day 4: Walking Safari and Bush Camping
Jump to Day 5: Walking Safari and Bush Camping
Jump to Day 6: Nsefu Camp
Jump to Day 7: Nsefu Camp
Jump to Day 8: Departure from South Luangwa National Park
Shop Deal of the Day at REI Outlet (up to 50% off)!
Preparations:
Click here to read more about Zambia and South Luangwa National Park
Destination overview: Zambia is a great safari destination. It may be a less famous destination when compared to some other African counties (Tanzania, South Africa, Botswana, etc.), but South Luangwa National Park is a destination worth traveling to. Due to its very high density of animals, South Luangwa provides great opportunities to see leopards and lions and to see large numbers of hippo, impala, and other species. There is also a large population of birds, which make the park a popular destination for birders. In total, South Luangwa National Park has over 60 different animal species and over 400 different bird species.
The Luangwa River meanders through the park, so you are also treated to expansive views of the river and surrounding landscape. Thus, even if you have a slow game drive you still get to see many spectacular river views. The river also helps with the game viewing since the different species tend to congregate around the river and the nearby lagoons. This makes it easier to spot animals when compared to other parks that have more spread out water sources. It is rare to ever be bored on a game drive in South Luangwa since you always see something interesting and beautiful.
South Luangwa National Park is also known for having top notch guides and safari lodges. We found our guides very knowledgeable and enjoyed that the park was not crowded with other safari vehicles. At a typical lion or leopard sighting, there would only be one or two other vehicles around. Rarely did we have to wait our turn in order to get a view of an animal sighting. South Luangwa also has many options for walking safaris and offers evening game drives to spot nocturnal species (great for spotting leopards). The walking safaris can either be done round trip from camp as a substitute for a game drive or can be done as part of a mobile camping experience where you start/end your walking safari at different camps. The walking safaris are nice alternatives if you want a break from successive game drives and want to stretch your legs.
The primary disadvantages of South Luangwa National Park safaris compared to some other destinations are the lack of rhino and cheetah. In addition, there are fewer flights into Zambia and fewer safari companies in South Luangwa when compared to better known destinations like South Africa or Tanzania (thus prices can be higher in Zambia). That said, our multiple lion and leopard sightings more than made up for our lack of rhino sightings and we found prices in Zambia to be lower than those in Botswana and lower than many high end camps in South Africa.
Click here to read more about Logistics
Logistics: The primary route to South Luangwa National Park is a flight into the Mfuwe Airport. There are flights to Mfuwe from the Lusaka International Airport on most days of the week. If you chose to drove from Lusaka to Mfuwe instead of flying, it would likely take around 10 hours and would be a very rough ride. There a variety of flights going into Lusaka, many of which connect through Addis Ababa or Johannesburg.
When choosing a flight to Lusaka, you will want to pay attention to your arrival time. There are only one or two flights to Mfuwe on any given day, so you want to ensure you can catch your connection unless you plan to stay the night in Lusaka. You safari guide/operator can assist in booking flights to Mfuwe and can help with the timing. They also will likely provide transportation from the Mfuwe Airport to the Safari Lodge/Camp. You will also want to consider what time you will arrive at the safari lodge. If you arrive early in the day, you may be able to join the afternoon/evening game drive the same day you arrive (typically starts around 4pm). This would allow you to maximize your experience!
Click here to read more about Preparations
Preparations: Visitors from most countries can purchase a Visa to enter Zambia upon arrival at the Lusaka Airport. We were able to use credit card to make the purchase and did not need cash. Aside from the Visa, the other main preparation we completed before arrival were getting medication to prevent malaria and getting the requisite vaccinations. Many malaria medications require you to begin taking the medication several days before arrival into a malaria zone, so be sure you look into this early. For the flight from Lusaka to Mfuwe, the plane is quite small, so be sure you check the luggage weight requirements (often <25 lbs). Many safari operators also request that you bring duffel type luggage bags and not hard suitcases.
Supplies: In our experience, it was only necessary to have two sets of safari clothing. You may even be fine with one set of safari clothing depending on the length of your trip. For our 8 day trip, we wanted to do laundry a couple times, so it was helpful to have an extra set of safari clothes to use while one set dried after being washed. Long story short, it is fine to wear the same shirt and pants on multiple game drives. There is no need to buy 4 pairs of expensive synthetic tan shirts and brown pants (unless you want to). You likely want to bring some clothes to change into for dinner as well. There is no need to dress up at most lodges/camps, but many people find it nice to change out of your sweaty, dirty safari clothes when you get back to camp.
For safari clothing, it is best to choose synthetic fabrics that breath well since it can be hot towards the end of the morning game drive and at the beginning of the afternoon/evening game drive. Long sleeves shirts and pants are great for sun protection, but you could also wear short sleeves and use sun screen. If you plan to do a walking safari, you want to choose clothing that is neutral in color (tans, brown, light green, etc). For game drives, the color of your clothing does not really matter. Typically, some comfortable pants and a neutral colored hiking shirt work well for most people. You also may want a wide brimmed hat to protect your neck from the sun.
It is a good idea to pre-treat your game drive clothing with permethrin spray repellent several days before your trip. Permethrin acts to repel mosquitoes and ticks and, once applied, lasts for several weeks. You may also considering using DEET or picaridin repellent spray each day to help fend off tsetse flies, which have painful bites.
For shoes, if you only plan to do game drives, you can really wear any type of shoes from sandals to hiking boots. You only really leave the safari vehicle for bathroom breaks and sundowner drinks and are not allowed to walk far from the guide. If you are considering doing some walking safaris, plan to bring comfortable hiking shoes. On the walking safaris you cover anywhere from 3-6 miles.
The main other essential items you will want are a pair of binoculars and a camera with optical zoom. Binoculars are great for viewing birds and for getting an up close view of far away animals. You do not need a large pair, but even a travel size pair is helpful. For a camera, I suggest bringing DSLR or mirror-less camera with a lens that goes up to 300 mm zoom. If you use a smartphone only, you will struggle to really capture the animals in your photos. You will rarely get close enough to take detailed pictures with your phone and you will struggle to take phones in dusk and evening lighting. A phone is great for capturing the landscapes, but a camera with a 70-300mm zoom will let you capture the animals.
Below is a list of the gear recommended for this type of Zambian Safari:
Safari clothes
- comfortable synthetic hiking pants (prAna Zion Pants)
- neutral colored, long sleeve hiking shirt (Mountain Hardwear Canyon Shirt)
- fleece jacket for early mornings and for evenings (Patagonia Better Sweater Fleece)
- light bandana for extra sun protection (Levi’s printed bandana)
- wide-brimmed hat (Columbia Boonie II Hat)
- Comfortable hiking shoes
Safari gear
- modest-sized binoculars (Nikon Prostaff 10X42 Binoculars)
- camera with 300mm (or greater) zoom (Nikon D5600 w/ 70-300mm lens)
- LED flashlight (Fenix E12 Flashlight)
- modest-sized duffel bag for luggage (Patagonia Black Hole 55L duffel)
- day pack to carry supplies (Osprey Talus 22L pack)
- Permethrin clothing treatment (Sawyer Permethrin Spray)
- DEET or Picaridin bug repellent
- sunglasses, sun screen, lip balm
- pen and notebook to list animals/birds observed
……….
Day 1: Arrival at South Luangwa National Park; Check-in at Luangwa River Camp
The first day of our 8 day safari was spent mostly traveling. We first flew from Lusaka to Mfuwe. This flight is short and you take a small prop plane (you could drive, but the ride would take quite long and the roads are not great). After arriving and picking up our luggage, we were met by a representative from our Safari guide company. It was pretty easy to spot the different representatives and they all have vehicles waiting out front of the airport.
The drive to our lodge was around an hour long. The road leads through part of the Mfuwe Village so you have the opportunity to stop at a few local shops if you want to. We arrived late in the day, so we opted to go straight to the camp. The road is well paved at the beginning but eventually deteriorates and you must travel slowly.
Along the way, the air smelled like smoke and the sky was very hazy. Apparently the villagers burn their fields around that time of year (August). We were really worried that South Luangwa National Park would be hazy with gross air as a result, but luckily the air was clear when we got to Luangwa River Camp.
It was dark by the time we reached River Camp our first day. We had missed the evening game drive, but arrived in time to have a drink and shower before dinner. We could hear hippos in the distance from camp, but were not able to see them or the river in the dark (we had to wait until the morning for that).
……….
Day 2: Full day at Luangwa River Camp; morning and evening game drives
This day marked the 1st full day of our South Luangwa National Park safari. A typical day on this trip consisted of an early wake up around 5:45am. Breakfast was cooked on a fire outside and served with tea and coffee at 6:00am. Then, guests would head out on the morning game drive around 6:30am.
After our tea break at the lagoon, we set off again on the game drive. We quickly camp upon a pride of lions drinking water. We ended up following and watching the pride for about 30 minutes, which was amazing for a first game drive.
At this point, we ended our morning game drive and headed back to Luangwa River camp. During the heat of the day (~11am-4pm) guests are typically left to relax and enjoy themselves at the camp. Many animals rest during this part of the day, so there are not any game drives at this time. Around 3:30 or 4pm there is typically a tea break and then guests get ready to head off on the afternoon/evening game drive at 4:30pm. The first half of the afternoon/evening game drive will be warm and it is still light out. Once the sun begins to set, the safari guide will typically stop at a nice viewpoint and provide some drinks during a short break. After that, you finish up the game drive in the dark. The guide drives and there is usually a spotter in the vehicle that shines a spotlight ahead to try to find animals. In the evening you are more likely to see leopards and to see kills from lions. Our evening drives ended by 8pm each night because South Luangwa National Park closes at this time. You then head back to camp for dinner and drinks.
We found the evening game drives to be a great experience. It was very interesting to see leopards and lions hunting and you also get to see unique animals that are much harder to spot during the day (genets, civets, etc.). The main disadvantages of the evening drives is that it can be a little straining on your eyes to follow the spotlight around and it is a bit more challenging to take photos.
……….
Day 3: Transfer from Luangwa River Camp to Tena Tena Camp; morning and evening game drives
This day started much the same as the last day, with one exception. Because we were being transferred to Tena Tena Camp, we had to pack up our luggage before heading out on the morning game drive. Besides that, we had the typical 6am breakfast and set off at 6:30am for the game drive (with our luggage in the safari vehicle). As part of the game drive, our guide took us northeast towards Tena Tena Camp. We eventually reach an area where we needed to cross the river to get to the new camp. Here we were met by members of the staff from Tena Tena and they took across the river in a boat and then transferred us to a new safari vehicle. From this point, it was just a short drive to Tena Tena Camp where we stayed for one night.
After relaxing at Tena Tena and enjoying the view, we had the typical tea at 3:30pm and set off on the afternoon/evening game drive around 4pm. This game drive was probably the least productive and interesting off the trip.
……….
Day 4: Start of walking safari and Mobile Bush Camping
For the next few days we set off on the walking safari and bush camping portion of our trip. Here we would forgo game drives and walk through the bush with our guide. A walking safari allows you to experience the national park in a more personal way when compared to a game drive. You are on foot and see the animals from a slightly different perspective. You are also able to get close views of animals footprints, dung, and other signs that guides use for tracking. The walks are much quieter since you do not have a vehicle running, so you can better hear birds and other species. A disadvantage of a walking safari is that animals are much more scared of humans on foot (as opposed to humans in a vehicle) and thus tend to run away when you approach them on foot. This means that you most often see animals from afar rather than up close.
After our lunch and afternoon siesta break, we had a cup of tea and then set off on the afternoon walking safari. For the afternoon walk, we would head out and walk for a few miles. Before sunset we would meet a member of the guide team who had driven the safari vehicle into the bush and set up a table with snacks and sundowner drinks. After sunset, we would all get into the vehicle and drive back to our mobile bush camp.
……….
Day 5: Continue walking safari and mobile bush camping (move camp to new location)
This day we transited from one bush camp to another. Thus, we packed up our luggage before getting breakfast over the fire at 6:00am. We were able to just leave our bags in the tent because the staffed moves everything as you walk. We set off on the walking safari at around 6:30am. About halfway through the walk, we stopped for a tea break. Then, we continued walking until we reached the second mobile bush camp.
We then reached our second mobile bush camp. This camp was set up under a large sausage tree in the bush, so it was less scenic and photogenic than the first camp. It was still nice though! After eating lunch our guide came over and let us know that the Nsefu lion pride was spotted nearby. We decided to quickly hop in the safari vehicle and head over to get a look at the pride.
After watching the Nsefu lion pride for about an hour, we headed back to the bush camp and relaxed for another couple hours. Around 4pm we headed out to start the afternoon/evening walking safari. We initially started in the safari vehicle because the guide figured we would check on the lion pride to see if they were still around. The Nsefu pride had moved to a nearby location so we briefly stopped to watch them again. After taking a bunch of pictures, our guide drove to the starting point for our walking safari and we set off on foot.
……….
Day 6: Morning walking safari, Arrive at Nsefu Camp, evening game drive
This day we again were moving camps, but were going to a standard safari camp (Nsefu Camp) rather than another mobile bush camp. This would mark the end of our walking safari portion of the trip. We took a short drive in the safari vehicle before setting off on the walk. The Nsefu lion pride had made a kill in the very early morning, so we started walking towards that area. The lions quickly saw us and ran off. Then, a group of hyenas moved in and starting eating the scraps. As we continued to walk closer, the hyenas eventually scattered. From there, we continued to walk until we reached Nsefu Camp.
We ended our walking safari at Nsefu Camp. This camp sits on a cliff above the Luangwa River and has a really spectacular view of the river. They also have a watering hole at the camp, which is frequently visited by a variety of animals. We spent several hours during the afternoon enjoying the views around camp.
After spending the afternoon watching the watering hole, we had our tea and left for the afternoon/evening game drive. This would be our first game drive in the Nsefu region of South Luangwa National Park. This was the most exciting game drive of the trip as we saw two lion kills.
We checked in again with the Nsefu lion pride. They were still resting in the area of the park where we saw them before. After a quick stop, our guide recommended we move on and then try to find the pride at night when they would likely be hunting.
Shortly after our drink break, we set off on the rest of our game drive. We headed back towards where we previous saw the Nsefu pride. Along the way we met up with the pride as they were on a hunt. We slowly followed behind the pride as they walking along listening for prey. Eventually they slowed to a stop and then darted towards an open field where a kill had been made.
The male took the impala off on his own and left the rest of the pride with scraps. He then ate the impala by himself under a nearby tree. The lionesses then headed off in the other direction. We watched the male lion eat for 5 minutes and then head a kill in the distance. We quickly drove towards it and found that the lionesses had killed a puku and were quickly eating it.
……….
Day 7: Full day at Nsefu Camp; Visit Salt Pans area
This was a full day at Nsefu with two game drives. It followed the typical schedule with a 6:30am drive and a 4-4:30pm drive. For the morning drive, our guide took us to the “Salt Pans” region of South Luangwa National Park. This part of the park has some wide open landscape that were very pretty. There is also a hot spring in the area.
……….
Day 8: Morning game drive, Bush Breakfast, flight transfer
On the last day we were pretty tired, so we slept in and started our game drive a couple hours later than usual. We eventually met up with some other guests and Nsefu Camp staff for a “Bush Breakfast” where they had set up a grill and cooked a variety of food for the guests. It was great to have breakfast and drinks in the bush. We were then lucky to encounter three wild dogs on our way back to Nsefu Camp after breakfast. After the game drive ended, we spent the rest of the afternoon packing and then hanging out in the lodge and watching the animals in the Nsefu Camp watering hole. Eventually it was time for our transfer to the Mfuwe airport.
Here are some similar trip reports!
Patagonia Circuit Trek – Torres del Paine National Park (80 mile loop)
Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu – 5 Day (46 mile)
Banff National Park Hiking Highlights
Backpackers Review 